Today we’re talking about formulations for two reasons.
One, many of our customers love to make formulations at home using natural products ingredients or have their own small businesses.
Two, others are keen to know what goes into the mass-manufactured cosmetic formulations they buy in stores and online.
In this article, we delve deeper into formulations to help you understand what types of ingredients are used for what purpose.
Formulations: Why you need to know more
When it comes to personal care, there are thousands of products available – maybe millions. And while many people simply buy them without a second thought, a growing number of consumers are keen to understand more about the products they buy or more so, what goes into them.
Globally, there is a huge responsibility on manufacturers to be transparent about their products, ingredients and processes. And that’s fair. When most personal care products end up on our skin, why wouldn’t we want to know about what’s inside them?
But also, there is a rising interest in making our own products at home to look after our skin and hair more naturally, using pure ingredients in place of harsh chemicals. With a bit of online research, you’ll find plenty of DIY recipes using essential oils or other natural ingredients – yet some are more in-depth formulations that require prior education or knowledge to create them safely and effectively. So, if you’re keen to know what types of ingredients are in formulations and work well for what end purpose, read on!
What are Cosmetic Formulations?
In short, a cosmetic formulation is any personal care product that has been formulated using one or more ingredients.
‘Cosmetics’ is a broad term, encompassing anything from skincare products to shampoos to makeup and more. The Oxford English Dictionary refers to a cosmetic as: A product applied to the body to improve its appearance. It’s true, cosmetics are about appearance and yet they can also do a lot for our emotional state too – literally helping us to feel good in our own skin.
How Ingredients Work in Formulations
Fans of natural oils are all about feeling good and ensuring optimum wellbeing, with many looking for ways they can incorporate oils into DIY solutions or formulations. It leads lots of AWO customers to ask us questions about the best ways to make a formulation – and we will always answer “it depends on what you’re creating, for what purpose, and what knowledge you already have”.
For example, you can dilute Tea Tree Essential Oil with a carrier oil and apply it to your scalp to help reduce dryness and prevent dandruff. But if you want to create a shampoo using the same oils, it requires other ingredients to create the formulation itself – and that relies on you having the right knowledge to create a safe and effective end product.
Whether you’ve got the expertise to create your own formulations or just want to know what exactly goes into making your favourite personal care products, we’re about to share details about the ingredients used in popular formulations - and those you can source from your favourite natural oils and ingredients supplier, AWO!
Key Categories of Ingredients in Cosmetic Formulations
Many ingredients go into formulations for different reasons. Let’s look at the common ones to help you learn which types are best for what products - together with recommendations for the best ones from AWO for making safe and effective formulations.
Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers help blend oil and water together – two ingredients that naturally want to stay separated. They bind these phases together to create a smooth, uniform product. Without emulsifiers, creams and lotions would split, feel uneven, or spoil quickly. They’re essential for both product stability and sensory feel.
Best for: Creams, lotions, sunscreens, after-sun care, cleansers, hand and nail care, makeup, and hair conditioners.
AWO recommends:
Stabilisers/Thickeners
As it might sound, a stabiliser helps maintain the consistency of a product over time, keeping it physically stable – that means it doesn’t separate, degrade, or lose its effectiveness. They modify the texture and viscosity of formulations, ensuring they continue to perform safely.
Best for: Creams, lotions, serums, shower gels, sunscreens, makeup, shampoos, and conditioners.
AWO recommends:
Humectants
Humectants are moisture magnets! They attract and retain moisture from the environment into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and plump, at the same time preventing dryness. It’s why humectants are often used alongside emollients and occlusives in hydration-focused formulations.
Best for: Serums, moisturisers, gels, face masks, cleansers, soaps, shampoos, and conditioners.
AWO recommends:
Preservatives
A critical ingredient in most formulations, preservatives prevent harmful microbial growth like bacteria, mould, and yeast. They extend shelf life and ensure products remain safe to use, especially those containing water. Without them, skincare and cosmetic products could spoil quickly or worse, cause skin irritation.
Best for: Creams, lotions, soaps (liquid and bar), moisturisers, shower gels, cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, masks, shaving creams, and any water-based formulation.
AWO recommends:
Emollients
Emollients soften and smooth the skin by forming a protective barrier and filling in tiny gaps and cracks on the surface. They improve skin texture, reduce flakiness, and create a protective layer that locks in moisture. Emollients also enhance spreadability and give formulations a rich, silky feel.
Best for: Creams, lotions, balms, body butters, lip care, sunscreens, and hair conditioners.
AWO recommends:
Occlusives
Occlusives form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface to lock in moisture and prevent water loss. They’re especially helpful in dry or harsh conditions and are often used alongside humectants and emollients for deep, lasting hydration.
Best for: Moisturisers, night creams, balms, ointments, lip care, and body butters.
AWO recommends:
Surfactants
Used for cleansing, foaming, and emulsifying, Surfactants help lift dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin or hair. They also enable foaming and allow water to mix with oil and grime so it can be rinsed away. Some surfactants also act as emulsifiers or solubilisers in formulations.
Best for: Cleansers, shampoos, body washes, facial washes, and exfoliants.
AWO recommends:
pH Adjusters
Responsible for balancing a formulation’s acidity or alkalinity, this ingredient is responsible for maintaining skin friendly pH. They ensure a product is gentle, stable, and effective, and play a crucial role in product safety and performance, especially in water-based formulations.
Best for: Cleansers, toners, exfoliants, serums, gels, and hair care products.
AWO recommends:
Antioxidants
This powerful type of ingredient helps protect the skin and the product itself from damage caused by free radicals, pollution, and UV exposure. Antioxidants can boost skin radiance, reduce signs of ageing, and improve product shelf life by preventing oxidation.
Best for: Creams, body butters, lotions, moisturisers, sunscreens, hair care, eye creams, facial oils, and anti-ageing products.
AWO recommends:
Fragrances (Essential Oils)
Essential oils add natural aroma to products and can offer therapeutic benefits like calming, energising, or purifying effects. They also provide antibacterial or anti-inflammatory properties, depending on the oil used. A little goes a long way in both scent and function.
Best for: Creams, lotions, balms, serums, body oils, bath products, and hair care – or any personal care products!
AWO recommends: All Essential Oils – select yours to suit the desired therapeutic effects!
Active Ingredients
These are the powerhouse components that deliver targeted benefits for a product - from reducing acne and pigmentation to smoothing wrinkles and boosting hydration. They're selected for their proven effects and are often the stars of any formulation.
Best for: Serums, treatments, spot correctors, eye creams, anti-ageing products, and exfoliants.
Creating Cosmetic Formulations: Are You Ready?
If you’re keen to create your own formulations, understanding your ingredients is the first step to doing so safely and effectively.
Now that you have a clearer picture of how each ingredient functions in a formula, you’re ready to grow your formulation how-to knowledge to start creating with confidence - knowing your products are not only effective, but also safe and well-balanced.
If you have questions about our ingredients, contact our team. And if you’re creating formulations at home, please share your success stories with us on Instagram or leave a review about your favourite AWO ingredients!